n2o HELP!!

[Crazzy_Al]

Ok, it seems that the farther I get into this the more I need to operate an n2o system safely and effectively. Here is a list of what I THINK I need, please let me know if I am missing anything or if you recommend anything else. If you recommend something else, please provide a link to where I might be able to find or aquire that item.


I plan on spraying 100-125 shot. I'm figuring I'll be pushing 425-450rwhp. (I don't care if anyone knows my setup)


NX Nitrous kit (Dry)
NOS Purge and Bottle Warmer
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (Mechanical)
Autometer Fuel Pressure Isolatro to mount the gauge inside the car
Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (Mechanical)
Autometer Nitrous Pressure Gauge 0-1600psi (Mechanical)
Autometer 3-pod Gauge A-Pillar
MSD RPM Window Switch
MSD RPM On/Off Pills

MSD Tach Adapter??? What does this do and why do I need it?

Should I get a BAP? Should I upgrade my injectors?


Lastly, how many (if any) of these items would I NOT need if I am getting a tune by Lidio @ Alternative?



***Thanks in advance guys. As previously stated I am new to performance mods and their installs and operation. Please excuse the ignorance for just a bit longer.***

Big mike, where you at on this one. I need your help brotha!!

[Casper302]

Hmm dont you need a tach adapter if you plan on using a after market tach? FUck it Al spay it with a 400 wet shot, fuck dry.

[Crazzy_Al]

Originally Posted by Casper302

Hmm dont you need a tach adapter if you plan on using a after market tach? No idea, but I will be running my stock tach. FUck it Al spay it with a 400 wet shot, fuck dry.

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray.

[Casper302]

Originally Posted by Crazzy_Al

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray.

Lol, try searching online at site's like www.hardcore50.com , www.nmraracing.com and so on, hell even try www.turbomustangs.com or www.mustangworld.com.

[Crazzy_Al]

Originally Posted by Casper302

Lol, try searching online at site's like www.hardcore50.com , www.nmraracing.com and so on, hell even try www.turbomustangs.com or www.mustangworld.com.

For what? An explanation of the tach adapter? I'm a member over at TM.com...I haven't been there in a long ass time though...

[Strtracer]

Originally Posted by Crazzy_Al

400hp shot? Am I reading that right? Wet or not, I see a big ass BOOM with that much spray.

No boom, just rattle, poof, clank.

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge.

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road)

I recommended the Mastermind because it does so much more than a window switch, and you can change things from the drivers seat.

Thought you were getting a wet kit?

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too.

Call Lidio and ask him, dont let someone else speak for him. He will tell you exactly what he can do for you, and will tell you what you car can and cannot handle whether he feels you need bigger injectors with the dry kit, and if you should get a BAP(I'm assuming you mean Barametric sensor??)

With a proper wet or dry kit, I see no reason that the car should have to be tuned, but Lidio is known for tweaking safe extra horsepower out of Mod motors.

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later.

[Crazzy_Al]

Originally Posted by Strtracer

No boom, just rattle, poof, clank.

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge. I might just go the ELEC route, I just heard that the MECH gauges are more accurate...I don't know.

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road) Definitely get a shift light huh? I'll probably do that too.

I recommended the Mastermind because it does so much more than a window switch, and you can change things from the drivers seat. Nice, but I think that might be overkil for what I am trying to accomplish. Damn nice piece though!!

Thought you were getting a wet kit? No sir, Dry.

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too. Yeah, I kinda like it though...sorry. "Ricey" I guess.

Call Lidio and ask him, dont let someone else speak for him. He will tell you exactly what he can do for you, and will tell you what you car can and cannot handle whether he feels you need bigger injectors with the dry kit, and if you should get a BAP(I'm assuming you mean Barametric sensor??) I called him today, he recommended everything on that list as extra safety features.

With a proper wet or dry kit, I see no reason that the car should have to be tuned, but Lidio is known for tweaking safe extra horsepower out of Mod motors. For the money, I'd still rather have him tune it and get the most SAFE hp possible...better than buying a new block.

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later. That's what I'm trying to do, spend the money now, all at once, and not keep buying little shit down the road or worse yet BIG repair bills due to cutting corners upfront.

Thanks Mike.

[Forward Motion]

Originally Posted by Strtracer

Ive already weighed in on this with you. The gauges are not neccessary, but you want them. I still would go electric on the Fuel pressure, mounting the mechanical with isolator on the pillar is going to be a pita. Thats the reason Autometer came out with the electric gauge.

I agree with you on that issue... what might save you a few bucks on the product is certainly gonna take its toll out on/in the install, in grief alone. whether you do it or you pay to have it done.

Originally Posted by Strtracer

You have to buy the tach adapter to signal the window switch, and any other rpm related components you may add.(You NEED a shift lite, your factory tach is not accurate, and you dont have the time to be looking at your tach and the road).

You can hide the shift light in a dash vent for inconspicus aesthetics but i'm almost positive Autometer makes a shift light that takes the shift pills without using the Flavor flave tachometer. Plus exuse the pun but i think the big tachs are tacky, and there really very seldom looked at in a serious event or race. to much to look at.

Originally Posted by Strtracer

Purge is not needed on the street. Waste of Nitrous, but we have talked about this too.

yea if your concerned with saving money, a purge kit is not it. Definatly good for intimidation factor tho.

Originally Posted by Strtracer

Nitrous is the best horsepower per dollar modification you can make. Quit being cheap, a quick car costs money.If You keep trying to go cheap, its gonna come back and bite you in the ass. Spend the money right the first time, and you won't have to redo it later.

Couldn't of said it better, hey you wanna work in sales don't you? lol

[Strtracer]

Believe me, your factory Tach is not accurate,never saw one that is. Since you dont really watch a tach when racing unless its right in front of your face, a simple shift lite is all thats needed. You dont have to even be looking at it, you'll know when it comes on. You set it for a few hundred RPM below where you determine to be your best shift point(due to the time it takes you to react)

Current Autometer Electric gauges are nothing like the older units or factory units that responded slow. Current technology makes them just as accurate as Mechanical, but easier to mount.

Ramped in horsepower(actually torque) is easier on the engine and tires than a max burst. Since good traction on the street is hard to come by, a ramped(progressive) controller would actually get the car out of the hole better than the simple full on. But you have to pay extra for this type of control.

If Lidio says your list has all the needed components, that tells me that he's gonna tune the motor for max safe power-N/A, and the computer will not be controlling any nitrous function, it will all be throttle switch and window switch, which is fine.

[Strtracer]

Originally Posted by Forward Motion

Couldn't of said it better, hey you wanna work in sales don't you? lol

My current pay and benefits package is way beyond what most would consider reasonable Thanks for the offer

By the way,Where is your shop.


Al, plan on buying an extra bottle or 2. They expire, so keep that in mind when shopping. but bottles can be recertified for about $15-20 apiece.

[Lisa]

Where did my post go?

Oh well I told you already before and I'm not typing that all out again, lol!

[Strtracer]

Originally Posted by Lisa

Where did my post go?

Oh well I told you already before and I'm not typing that all out again, lol!

How did that happen, I just read your post. Someone playin games??

[Lisa]

Originally Posted by Strtracer

How did that happen, I just read your post. Someone playin games??

Naw, no one will play games with posts so maybe it was erased on accident...I'll have to check it out.

[Crazzy_Al]

I wasn't really ever looking to "cut corners" or be "cheap" about the products. (hence the extra gauges and purge) But I don't want to waste money on shit that is not needed. (aside from the gauges and purge, which I like aesthetically and for the "initimidation factor") That's why I asked BEFORE I went out and bought everything. No sense in making multiple trips to the store and/or shops. For the sake of my motor (and ultimatley my bank book) I'd like to do this right the first time...that's why I come to you guys...you've done this shit before. I prefer to learn from other's mistake, and mot spend extra money on my own!

[Strtracer]

The Kit your buying is a wet kit, check Raj's post at MM