Well, I dont see any problem with those heads, they flow quite well,(better than the double camel hump vette heads that everyone seems to love so much), have the 202/160 valves, and screw in studs vs press in, so you can add cam and not worry about pullin a stud. Youre at mid to low 13s now, on a crap day, and a bad carb, so youre gonna get your high 12's just with better air and tuning. N2O and a good tune will put you in the low 12s high 11's without a problem. Forged pistons are a good idea, but with steel heads, I would be careful with the compression ration. 11:1 is gonna require at least mixing race gas with premium, 10:1 will work on 93-94 octane, and since gas is gonna stay above 2.30 a gallon, and race gas is around 4.00. I would go with 10.1 forged, a slightly bigger cam, a little bigger stall, and work on the suspension so the car hooks good. No sense making power if you cant hook it up. Drivability becomes a big issue with big cams and lots of compression, yes you can still drive them, but they are quite tempramental. Remember with the stall on the converter too, that if you go loose( above 3200) youre gonna have to add gear to keep the converter happy while just cruising. My choices, considering the size of your motor, would be for something between 270-280 advertised, and mid .500 on lift, 10 to 1 forged, 2400-2800 on the converter, and an adjustable NOS kit, traction modifications to the rear suspension, and adjustable struts up front. You can do all of that for less than 2K with some shopping
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Ban low performance Drivers,
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